The Day Mermelstein Knishes Were Trucked to Capitol Hill

A stroll down Kingston Avenue in the Crown Heights neighborhood of Brooklyn, N.Y., reveals rows of eclectic shops, including Judaica bookstores, Chassidic art galleries and modern kosher eateries. Seemingly overlooked by time, Mermelstein Caterers—still sporting a vintage marquee from the early 1950s—sits nestled between a trendy eyeglass store and an alley.