Passover Wines for Seder Meals

[Examiner] — I like to think of Passover as the Jewish version of Thanksgiving. Families and friends gather together to tell stories and eat a traditional meal, called the “Seder”. But there are a couple of eensy-weensy differences.

First, the Passover meal must be prepared without using any products that incorporate yeast. This is in deference to the Jew’s hasty departure out of Egypt when they did not have time for their bread to rise. But the second requirement, a big one in my book, is the Rabbinic obligation that four cups of wine are to be consumed during the Seder. Although grape juice is an acceptable substitute, the Mishnah insists that “even the poorest man in Israel” is obligated to drink and enjoy the fruit of the vine.

For proper observance, the wines served at a Seder meal should be kosher. That means that the wines have to be harvested, vinified and bottled according to very specific rules and rabbinic oversight. In some situations, this could include boiling the wines. The latter is how most of the cloyingly sweet concord grape wines are made. The good news is that those wines are quickly becoming less popular.

Today, kosher wines have entered a new era. There are a several countries that are dedicated to producing quality wines for all consumers. Israel is leading the way with six wine-producing regions turning out some pretty good juice. Italy, New Zealand, Australia and California are also on the map with respectable Kosher wine offerings.

Note: Kosher wines carry a heckscher, a mark demonstrating that a rabbi has supervised the preparation of the wine. Usually, heckschers include either the letter U or the letter K inside a circle on the wine label. Retail prices are approximate.

Nothing gets a party, or Seder, started like a glass of sparkling wine. The 2008 Bartenura Moscato ($15) from the Lombardy province of Italy is a fun and festive way to kick off the first cup. This sparkler features bright flavors of ripe pear, tangerine and nectarine on the front of the palate and a touch of green melon on the crisp, refreshing finish. Serve cold in a fluted glass.

White wine lovers will rejoice when they taste the 2008 Yarden Chardonnay ($20) from Galilee, Israel. This chardonnay is an exceptional full-bodied wine with plenty of toasty oak and buttered brioche on the bouquet and fresh flavors of pear, apple and a bit of melon in the mouth. Well balanced, with a long, elegant finish.

If you really want to see how far kosher wines have come, try the 2007 Galil Mountain “Yiron” ($20) from the Galilee appellation in Israel. This is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. It is aged for 16 months in small French oak barrels which produces a wine with a full-bodied frame featuring blackberry, cassis and jammy ripe plum on the front of the tongue. The finish is chocked full of nicely layered flavors of cocoa, dried herbs and earthy notes.

From the land down under comes the 2009 Goose Bay East Coast Pinot Noir ($20) from New Zealand. Using grapes grown in the Marlborough and Nelson appellations, this wine is on the lighter side, with delicate notes of strawberry and red cherry that seem to float on the tongue. The abundant acidity provides splendid balance and carries the hint of baking spices throughout the supple finish.

Another choice from south of the equator is the 2009 Beckett’s Flat Five Stones Shiraz ($21). Located in the Margaret River appellation of Australia, Becket’s Flat has been making kosher wines since 1998. Their shiraz displays characteristic blackberry and dark plum flavors up front and distinctive notes of black pepper on the balanced, powerful finish.

Of course, no celebratory meal is complete without dessert. The 2008 Baron Herzog Late Harvest Riesling ($25) from Monterey County, Calif., is a nicely balanced dessert-style wine. The abundant bright acidity keeping the sweet flavors of candied orange, apricot and dried pineapple in check and the finish clean. Serve it well-chilled.