Santa Fe’s First (and Only) Kosher Deli Becomes Hub of Jewish Life

by Chaya Ohana – chabad.org

New York-style kosher deli classics are now on the menu in the mountains of New Mexico, where the city of Santa Fe welcomed its first-ever kosher restaurant—the Manhattan Avenue Deli—housed on the second floor of Chabad-Lubavitch of Santa Fe’s newly expanded Jewish center.

The deli offers a mouthwatering selection of classic Jewish deli foods like hot pastrami on rye, a (kosher!) Reuben sandwich, matzah-ball soup, latkes, knishes and a NYC Bagels n’ Lox (featuring non-dairy cream cheese, of course). More than just a nice place to enjoy a good meal, the deli is fast becoming a cultural and spiritual hub in the city, drawing locals, tourists and seekers of all backgrounds into the heart of Jewish tradition.

Aside from providing a connection to Jewish cultural heritage through salted and cured meats, hearty soup, pillowy knishes and a good dose of kibitzing, Manhattan Avenue Deli champions the 10 Mitzvah Campaigns launched by the Rebbe, Rabbi Menachem M. Schneerson, of righteous memory, most notably the Kashrut Campaign he launched in 1975. The purpose of this campaign was to spread awareness of the importance of the kosher laws, and make it easier for Jews of all backgrounds to keep kosher both at home and out and about town.

“By providing a kosher service in the heart of Santa Fe, more people are able to understand what it means to eat kosher in a practical way, connecting body and soul,” shares Rabbi Berel Levertov, director of Chabad of Santa Fe. “Aside from dine-in and takeaway deli food, we also have a range of kosher products for people to buy and take home, making kosher food readily available on our side of town.”

A December 2024 piece about the deli in The Santa Fe New Mexican called it “a little slice of New York City in the middle of the Southwest and a unique addition to the city’s vibrant food scene.” It also noted that prior to Manhattan Avenue Deli, the closest kosher eatery was nearly 400 miles away, in Denver.

“Visitors to the restaurant may not have much knowledge about Judaism, but there’s certainly a Jewish cultural awareness, and the food we serve is a throwback to tradition, which is a great starting point,” explains Rabbi Shmuel Itkin, Levertov’s son-in-law and manager of Manhattan Avenue Deli. “The restaurant offers a gentle and informal entry point for those who may not feel ready to walk into the synagogue. Once they come and experience the genuine and warm atmosphere, they get a chance to walk around the centre on the way out, catching a glimpse of events and Torah classes, and it piques their interest.”

Making Chicken Soup for the Soul

The Manhattan Avenue Deli was born after 28 years of devoted effort by Levertov and his wife, Devorah Leah, who moved down to Santa Fe in 1996 as emissaries of the Rebbe, empowered to revive Jewish life in Santa Fe to its fullest capacity.

“Santa Fe is a beautiful city, perched in the mountains, with around 10 percent of the local population being Jewish, including the mayor,” says Levertov. “Although it is somewhat a transient community, we have many retirees, with a growing number of young families and younger people, as well as tourists.”

The rabbi notes that New Mexico never had a robust Jewish infrastructure, and therefore many Jewish locals grew up without the benefit of a Jewish education. Nevertheless, he says, there’s a strong sense of spiritual searching among those who are drawn to the state known as the “Land of Enchantment.” “There’s this sense of seeking, and yearning for something more, so we see tremendous engagement with the weekly classes in Chassidus and Kabbalah—the mystical parts of the Torah—that we offer.”

Devorah Leah Levertov runs programming for women with regular challah bakes, Jewish Women’s Circle Events and teaches Torah classes.

“Thank G‑d, we have a very active and engaged community,” she says.

The Levertovs’ Chabad center started in their living room. Almost 30 years later, in June 2023, they completed a $6 million Jewish community center, a three-story building featuring breathtaking views that houses all of Chabad of Santa Fe’s programs and serves the entire community. “Our Jewish center stands out as a tall, majestic symbol of Jewish hope and pride,” Levertov says proudly.

During construction, the Levertovs spotted a large space in the new building without a clear purpose, and thought of ways to best utilize it. They quickly realized that Chabad could do with an industrial kitchen, since they were constantly catering events for the community; be it Shabbat meals, Torah classes, celebrations for Jewish festivals and other milestones.

“Since we were making so much food anyway, an in-house restaurant was naturally the next thought; but we had no one to run it,” recalls Devorah Leah Levertov. Two years ago their daughter, Esther, married Rabbi Shmuel Itkin, and soon thereafter the couple moved to Santa Fe to join the Levertovs in their work. Shmuel became assistant rabbi, youth director and chazzan, and when the idea for the city’s first-ever kosher deli came up, restaurant manager.

“That’s how the Manhattan Avenue Deli began. Our son-in-law does a great job. He’s warm and personable; it’s incredible, people immediately feel at ease from when they walk in,” she says. “Together with our daughter Esther, he genuinely enjoys meeting the visitors who come in to eat. Combined with our amazing chef, it’s a win-win: top-rated food and great conversation.”

“The deli is … a family affair,” the New Mexico Jewish Journal wrote, noting both Itkins’ senses of humor, and Esther’s skillful table-bussing while cradling their baby son, Mendel. “The atmosphere is light, fun, the service is fast, the prices are moderate for Santa Fe, and over the next few hours, people kept coming for the food and staying for the new and old connections and sense of community.”

“The deli appeals to Jews of all backgrounds: even those who may not be looking for Judaism in their life, are always looking for a good deli in their life,” shares Rabbi Itkin.

Hot Spot for Food and Community

At the helm of the kitchen is Chef Aron Moskowitz, who blends his culinary experience and expertise from years in the food industry with his Ashkenazi heritage. He creates his own bespoke tried-and-tested recipes from scratch: “Many of our dishes we make here are inspired by my ancestry, and the methods passed down from my mother and grandmother being Ashkenazi Jewish, straight from Minsk.”

With Santa Fe also serving as a tourist hotspot, with a vibrant food scene, the deli attracts a wider audience: “About 50 percent of the deli’s visitors aren’t Jewish, and visitors can get to experience an authentic vibe: New York Jewish food and Israeli food. We even make our own hummus and tahini, and we have the best falafel in town,” Moskowitz adds.

The deli’s exposed brick walls give it an authentic vintage New York vibe that pairs perfectly with classic Jewish comfort food and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

“Our vision is to expand to the fullest capacity, attracting as many people as we can—connecting them to their Jewish roots and heritage, through traditional Jewish food,” Moskowitz says, adding that there is a sense of fulfillment working at Manhattan Avenue Deli, knowing how powerful food is to Jewish memory, tradition and connection. “We have our regulars, and it’s nice to shmooze, hang out, and what better way than over a good pastrami sandwich?”

The alt weekly Santa Fe Reporter was effusive in its praise of Manhattan Avenue Deli’s pastrami—“thin sliced and bursting with the subtly salty/spicy kick”—but saved its most rapturous enthusiasm for a side-dish too often taken for granted on the East Coast: “As for the latkes? No notes, jack!!! Talk about the perfect combo of salty and crispy. And with the sweetness of the apple sauce side? Ooowweeee, it’s all we can think about, honestly. As in, the deli is closed today and we don’t know how we’ll live without them.”

The restaurant is currently open three days a week, but there are imminent plans to expand to five due to growing demand in the community, illustrating the principle that while food may open the door—it is the community that takes it from there.